Feb 276 min read

SKINCARE BUZZWORDS YOU NEED IN YOUR VOCABULARY

I am sitting here with an ice cold face mask on my face which is looking very tomato-esque. I am trying to cool the results of a needling session at The Beautique which has left my skin feeling hot and itchy. I have to laugh at the lengths we go to for "beauty". I sometimes wonder whether skincare professionals are just making some of this stuff up.

"Right, so now we are going to prick your entire face with needles to encourage collagen production, because, why the hell not?"

I guess it all comes down to results, and I have to admit I am sucker for more pain, more gain. I like to feel the burn or see the peel to know that things are happening!

But do we really need another peptide or compound or hydro-x-y-z to add to our skin routine? And how many times should we really be cleansing our face?

Generations before us didn't have serum after serum and I am pretty sure aging just came down to great genes and sun exposure. But let's say there is something to all the scientific advances of our skin care generation, how do we then know which are the most important skincare tricks to have up our sleeve and which words are the most NB when it comes to the Urban Dictionary of skincare?

I have done a little research so you don't have to!

DOUBLE CLENSING

Double cleansing is effectively using two types of cleansers for different reasons. Firstly an oil based formula then something water soluble. The thinking behind it is that the first cleanse removes everything sitting on top of your skin - makeup, pollution, dirt and debris from the day. The second then preps your skin for the rest of your skin care regime.

BENEFITS:

Removes Makeup Effectively.
Remove Excess Oil Buildup.
Improves Efficacy Of Other Skincare Products.
Cleanses Without Stripping The Skin.
Brightens The Skin.

Currently I am using the Lamelle Essential Oil as a "pre-cleanse" and I am really enjoying the way it melts off my make up so that my cleanser can get to work on my skin and not everything on top of it! The Mbiri gentle cream cleanser is another wonderful option.

I follow up the Lamelle Essential Oil with the Dermaheal Cleanser, but I am also dying to try the new Lumi Glo Cleansing Balm.

Please note: The Lamelle Essential Oil can be ordered from The Beautique via email.

HYALURONIC ACID

This one has been around for a while, but is it really all that it's cracked up to be?

A natural substance found in human connective tissue, hyaluronic acid is what maintains the moisture levels in our skin.

Amazingly, hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it can draw water from the environment into the skin, thus helping to keep it hydrated. It can bind water up to 1000 times its volume and is effective in both high and low humidity conditions. Because it acts like a magnet for moisture, it holds water which results in giving you a hydrated, plumped up texture.

Unfortunately for us, our natural hyaluronic acid production starts to decline with age which is why incorporating it into our beauty regimes is so important! Think plum not prune!!

In my opinion the more HA the better. I like to incorporate it into my routine with the Lumi Glo Mist, Lumi Glo Hydro Moisturiser as well as the more potent addition of the Luamu HA Serum (a long time favourite of mine!).

SPF DAILY

You might be questioning whether SPF should even be considered a buzzword, but I have included it as it's often used as a selling point for moisturisers and foundations, however how much do we really know about what is important when it comes to daily sun protection?

Whilst no sunscreen can block out 100% of the suns rays, applying the right choice of SPF can have a huge impact on how well we protect our skins.

Our concern is both UVA and UVB rays.

UVA prematurely ages the skin causing wrinkling, fine lines and age spots, AND can also pass through window glass!

UVB is the burning ray, and would be the primary cause of sunburn, AND are largely blocked by window glass.

Here is what you need to know when selecting your daily protection:

Your daily SPF should be at least 30 spf or higher.
- SPF basically tells you how much UVB light your sunscreen can filter out. "For instance, an SPF of 15 is going to filter out 93% of the sun’s UVB rays whereas an SPF of 30 is going to filter out about 97% of the sun’s UVB rays." read more from this doctor here.
Know the difference between Chemical and Mineral sunscreen.
- Mineral sunscreens are physical and sit on top of the skin to filter out the sun's damaging UV rays. Common ingredients used in mineral sunscreens include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Better for children and pregnant woman as it is not absorbed by the skin.
- Chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin and tends to be a better choice for those with mature skin (as the product won't settle into creases) and for occasions when you are active outdoors (since you can't sweat it off).
Look for broad spectrum.
- Your sunscreen needs to offer protection from UVA and UVB rays.
Don't rely on SPF Makeup alone.
- Makeup with SPF probably isn't offering enough protection, depending on the formula.
- It is generally recommended that one applies a true sunscreen as a last step in your skincare routine, then layers foundation on top if needed. Depending on how much coverage you want, a tinted SPF could be a good replacement for foundation altogether.

I have been using Heliocare tinted sunscreen for years and I love it. I use the light and often layer it with my foundation for a little more coverage in areas of my face such as my cheeks, nose and under my eyes.

The CF Suncare glow is also a really beautiful, broad spectrum sunscreen that I have in my toolbox. Not as tinted as Heliocare but with a more shimmery effect that beautifully highlights your best features and leaves your skin not only protected but beautifully glowing.

NON-COMEDOGENIC OILS

Oil-based skin care is becoming increasingly popular. And we now know (thanks to skincare professionals) that certain oils don’t, in fact, clog pores or cause breakouts.

The right oils for your skin can actually improve elasticity, boost moisture, and even promote glowing, healthy-looking skin, all without causing blackheads or skin irritations.

Non-comedogenic oils help keep dry skin supple and oily skin acne-free. That’s because noncomedogenic oils don’t clog pores. This allows skin to breathe, remain hydrated, and keeps it free from breakouts.

Oil is a lipophilic, meaning that it helps to lock in moisture. Using oil-based products on our skin helps create a barrier and seal in moisture, along with other products that you have layered underneath. This is especially important as we age, because our skin gradually loses elasticity and moisture, which in turn causes us to look older.

In addition, because oils form a protective barrier over our skin, it helps prevent chemicals, toxins, and other skin-damaging substances from penetrating the inner layers of our skin.

When you use the right oils (i.e. non-comedogenic oils that nourish your skin), they can also help clarify your pores and even regulate oil production. That’s because dehydrated skin tends to overproduce oil to compensate for the dryness, which then makes you more susceptible to oily or acne-prone skin.

By keeping skin moisturised, you can actually help your skin balance oil production and reduce the chance of breakouts.

Most non-comedogenic oils are lightweight and fast-absorbing, so they won’t leave a heavy or greasy feeling after application. As long as you are using oils that are pure and products from trusted brands, oil-based skin care can be absolutely wonderful for your face.

I have been using both skin oils and serums in my skincare routine for over 5 years now and there has been a noticeable improvement in not only my skin texture, scarring and elasticity, but also in the frequency of my breakouts. I would be lying if I told you that I used the same products every single day, (I choose to mix it up!), but what they do have in common is that they are packed with natural, non-comedogenic ingredients that get to work on my skin.

Below are the ones I tend to use most often on rotation.